Luxury fashion brands in 2024 are leveraging on the evolved use of their maison’s motifs to “recharge” their brand direction. The value of motifs, prints, monograms, patterns, and emblems are inherently linked to the heritage of their respective fashion houses. While the Burberry check may be synonymous with British style, the sight of Louis Vuitton’s monogram flowers on a leather suitcase is a status symbol in itself.
Famous Maison Monograms
Dior Oblique 3D
Then:
Now:
Dior’s Weekender 40 with the Maxi Dior Oblique jacquard, offers a new take on the house motif, and is enhanced by the Dior signature.
While Italian couturier Gianfranco Ferré played a key role in the geometric silhouettes, precise tailoring and architectural lines of Christian Dior pieces, it was his predecessor Marc Bohan who conceptualised the Dior Oblique. The Dior Oblique motif was conceived by Marc Bohan in 1967 and has since become an essential signature of the maison’s accessories and ready-to-wear pieces. Dior’s oblique monogram is characterised by a repeating pattern of the brand’s initials intertwined and has been reimagined in various colours and materials. It was first revived by John Galliano on bikinis and accessories, then by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Kim Jones who featured a new iteration of the print on his Dior Men’s Spring 2023 collection. The signature toile was reworked for the holiday season into an iridescent variation that saw jacquard enriched with ruthenium-coloured lurex threads.
Dior Men’s Spring 2023 collection
2024 sees the print make somewhat of a return to its roots with colouration, print and pattern similar to that of its original variation.
Louis Vuitton’s Monogram Flowers
Classic Take:
The history of the Louis Vuitton monogram began in 1896 when George Vuitton wished to pay tribute to the legacy of his late father, Louis, who had just passed away. This emblematic signature was inspired by the earthenware tiles of the Gien brand, where four-petalled flowers were drawn in the kitchen of the family home in Asnières. The original monogram flowers from the late 19th century were heavily influenced by the Art Nouveau movement. This style emphasised organic forms, intricate details, and flowing lines, which can be seen in the floral motifs and geometric patterns of the vintage monogram. The floral motifs in the pattern are inspired by Japanese and Oriental designs, popular at the time. The motifs were chosen not only for their aesthetic appeal but also for their ability to deter counterfeiters through intricate detailing. George, also decided to add his father’s initials: LV, as a sign of the unfailing bond that would unite the following generations. Louis Vuitton’s monogram flower print features the interlocking LV initials with floral motifs and geometric patterns. The motif differs from the interlocking “LV” monogram created by Georges Vuitton and the checkerboard canvas Damier.
New iteration:
Aside from new colourways, fabrications and textiles, monogram flower print remains virtually unchanged across the maison’s range of leather goods and ready-to-wear pieces. However, the recent Fall/Winter 2024 men’s show’s western themes have influenced a new take on the motif by evolving the signature detail with a western-American-style bandana print.
Burberry
Then:
Now:
Burberry autumn/winter 2023 Collection
Known today as a print that is emblematic of British style, the Burberry check pattern was originally used as a lining for outwear, particularly in trench coats and raincoats in the 1920s. It has become a globally recognised motif that features camel, black, red, and white stripes in a crisscross pattern. Over the decades, the Burberry check has seen many incarnations, most famously, the cashmere check scarf which was introduced in the 1970s. The check was then used for ready-to-wear collections being heavily featured on the brand’s campaigns throughout the 1980s and 1990s before becoming a registered trademark. While the check pattern (or tartan) is known to have Scottish roots, Burberry check has been trademarked and is now regarded as “Corporate tartan”.
Former creative director Riccardo Tisci unveiled a new Burberry print in 2018 and under the current creative direction of Daniel Lee, the Burberry Check continues to be reimagined in new colourways.
Modernised Motifs & Emblems
Gucci’s Interlocking G
Then:
Similar to Louis Vuitton, Gucci’s logo and motifs are intrinsically linked to Gucci’s heritage. The late 1930s saw the introduction of canvas into the maison’s artisanal luggage offerings to provide enhanced durability. Here, Diamante fabric emerged and became one of the first distinctive elements of the house with its emblematic diamond motif. This was a precursor of the GG monogram canvas which represents the initials of Guccio Gucci, the brand’s founder, and pays homage to the company’s heritage and tradition. The Gucci symbol became a visual embodiment of Gucci’s identity. Gucci’s double-G logo monogram is instantly recognisable and has been reinterpreted in various ways over the years. The multiple variations include the knight returned to the logo in 1971, a version with spaced letters and characters by Tom Ford in 1998 and one of the most recent changes that was made to the logo was by Alessandro Michele in 2019, who created a new version of the “double G” with the two overlapping and right-oriented characters.
Updated Iteration:
For the Love Parade collection, former creative director Alessandro Michele chose to highlight the archival monogram across a selection of bags and shoes, further bridging the house’s past and present.
Celine’s Triomphe
The Triomphe has gone from maison logo to monogram print
The Triomphe logo was originally designed by Celine’s founder, Céline Vipiana, in the 1970s. It was inspired by the architectural details of Paris’ Arc de Triomphe, specifically the intertwining motifs and symmetry found in the famous monument’s structure. The logo embodies elegance, Parisian heritage, and timeless design, reflecting Celine’s commitment to craftsmanship and luxury. Its geometric shapes and clean lines resonate with the minimalist aesthetic that characterises Celine’s brand identity. The Triomphe logo was initially used on Celine’s accessories, particularly on handbags and leather goods. Its understated yet distinctive appearance quickly became synonymous with the brand’s understated luxury and craftsmanship.
New Iteration Print
In 2018, under the creative direction of Hedi Slimane, the Triomphe logo was reintroduced and prominently featured in Celine’s collections. Slimane’s reinterpretation of the logo emphasised its graphic simplicity and its role as a hallmark of Celine’s Parisian heritage. Today, the Triomphe logo appears on a variety of Celine products, including handbags, shoes, ready-to-wear garments, and accessories. It is often seen embossed or printed on leather, woven into textiles, or used as hardware accents on Celine’s luxury goods.
MCM’s Visetos Print
Classic Print:
MCM was created in Munich, Germany and its symbol of a hand-drawn MCM logo complete with laurel leaves tied with a ribbon paid homage to Bavarian King Ludwig I and his passion for neoclassicism. This same logo is paired with a diamond outline inspired by the lozenges of the Bavarian flag to create MCM’s cognac-and-black Visetos motif which has become a widely known pattern in luxury fashion today. The maison’s “Visetos” motif in its classic iteration is called the Cognac Visetos and includes a black pattern printed over a cognac base.
New Iteration:
Staying true to their history of collaborations and celebrity capsule collections, MCM’s recent MCM x Honey Dijon Capsule Collection marked a new direction for the brand’s interpretation of their logo and monogram. The collection is described by the brand as “an electrifying fusion of music and fashion….co-created with the DJ and fashion favorite whose dynamic beats and style are just the kind of Maverick flavor we love”.
Yves Saint Laurent’s Cassandre Motif
Original iteration:
The Yves Saint Laurent Cassandre motif was designed by graphic designer Adolphe Mouron Cassandre (A.M. Cassandre) in 1961. Renowned for his contributions to the Art Deco and Modernist movements, he designed the YSL logo in 1961 when Yves Saint Laurent founded his now legendary eponymous fashion house. The YSL logo features the letters “YSL” intertwined in a distinctive monogram. The symmetrical design captures the essence of Yves Saint Laurent’s innovative and sophisticated approach to fashion. The YSL logo quickly became an integral part of the brand’s visual identity, appearing on clothing, accessories, and packaging. Its clean lines and bold presence contributed to the brand’s recognition and popularity. Over the years, the YSL logo has been adapted and stylised the Cassandre motif in various ways while maintaining its core elements.
Modern Motif:
Yves Saint Laurent was then rebranded as Saint Laurent Paris as of Spring/Summer 2013. When Anthony Vaccarello was appointed as creative director of Saint Laurent Paris in 2016, he brought renewed attention to the Cassandre motif. He emphasised the logo’s historical significance while modernising its application in contemporary fashion. Vaccarello utilised the YSL logo by integrating it into designs that reflect his bold and edgy aesthetic. This includes its prominent display on handbags, shoes, ready-to-wear garments, and accessories across Saint Laurent’s collections.
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